Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Manual installation of exhaust systems for CT Suzuki Hayabusa 2008

Installation of exhaust systems: Step 1: check the package contents: 1.4 four mounting Flanges 2 header. Four Spigots, 4 3. A 1 right and left side header 1 (primary) 4. A sink of 5. Package containing Springs, Spring extractor and supplementary information 6. One (1) elbow (or two if 2 dual) 7. A silencer (1) CT (or two if 2 dual) 8. A black rubber cover (not shown) step 2: PRE-ASSEMBLE headers, collector, and MID-PIPE to HOLD FIT between all appropriate portions: performance of Brock pre-assembles the exhaust system before it is delivered to your door. We ask for this to ensure there were no submission damages incurred before you start disassembling your bicycle.

Many of our customers use WD-40 applied for joints to ease mounting, adaptation and/or disassembly. Step 3: Remove bodywork: remove all push pins, starting with 2 under the motorcycle fairings, holding two side together. Then remove the pins of two push behind the wheel front holding the bottom of the screen for side fairings.

Remove the screen (piece of Chin). Remove the belly pan, disconnecting the pins to push back the regulator/rectifier and 4 mm Allen screw on the right side below the assembly of peg and foot brake. Remove mm (2) 4 Allen screws on the right side fairing, and (2) screws below the handle bars (one black, one silver). Repeat on the left side of the bike.
Download Complete 2008 Suzuki Hayabusa CT Installation Manual of exhaust systems.

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Testing Transmission Systems Acura

These instructions for reading manual codes only apply to 2001 and earlier models. 2002 and later models have CODES & DATA selections available from the MAIN MENU

This chapter contains information for testing Acura vehicles with the Asian Import Vehicle Communication Software (VCS). The following Acura systems may be available for testing get here
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Tuesday, May 14, 2013

2010 Acura TL Accelerated Innovation Manual

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ZF 5HP24 coefficient

ZF 5HP24 coefficientThe ZF 5HP24 coefficient is widely victimised by various car maker and installed in individual cars much as BMW 540i, BMW 740i, BMW 740iL, BMW 640Ci, BMW X5 4.4i, BMW X5 4.6is, Cat XJ8, Soil Rover Straddle Rover. This listing includes exclusive thin parts for Northern Earth specifications of a ZF transmittal remedy. The "where used" structure (Where old (10__ 000 ___)) shows the finish iii digits of the gear specification that uses the catalogued refrain voice. If the editorial indicates "All", then all Northwestward Ground coefficient restriction use this unnecessary object.Contents:

* 5HP24 Transmission Overview (North American Applications) [ Make / Model / Model Year ]
* 5HP24 Technical Information [ Torque, Gear Ratio & Weight ~ Transmission Oil Reference Guide ~ 5HP24 Lubrications ~ 5HP24 Technical Literature ~ 5HP24 General Transmission Oil Filling Procedure ]
* 5HP24 Spare Parts [ How To Use This Catalog ~ Gearbox Housing Group ~ Input Group ~ Oil Sump Group ~ Oil Supply Group ~ Output Group ~ Converter Group ~ Parking Lock Group ~ Brake Group ~ Planetary Drive Groups ~ Clutch Pack Groups ]
* 5HP24 Valve Body [ Duct Plate Group ~ Valve Housing Groups ]
* 5HP24 Selective Shims, Snap Rings & Kit Content [ 5HP24 Selective Shims & Snap Rings ~ 5HP24 Kit Content ]
* Miscellaneous [ Quotation / Order Form ~ Notes ]

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Acer Extensa 390 Service Manual


Acer Extensa 390 Service Manual - This Acer Extensa 390 Service Manual guide contains reference info regarding the Acer Extensa 390 notebook pc. It provides sst and peripheral specifications, shows learn how to establish and solve system issues and explains the procedure for removing and replacing system parts. It too provides info for ordering spare components. This service guide aims out to furnish technical info in the service engineers and advanced users when upgrading, configuring, or repairing the Acer Extensa 390 notebook.


Acer Extensa 390 Service Manual contents
  • System Introduction
  • Major Chip Descriptions
  • BIOS Setup Information
  • Disassembly and Unit Replacement
  • Model Number Definition
  • Exploded View Diagram
  • Spare Parts List
  • Schematics
Acer Extensa 390 Service Manual
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Monday, May 13, 2013

BMW D7 Service manual

BMW D7 OWNERS MANUAL this manual used to be written on your behalf so that you just could can assist you experience your new BMW Marine Engine to the utmost. No marine engine, be it the perfect in the world, will function at it’s perfect all over an extended existence, with out correct care and upkeep. Please read this handbook sparsely sooner than you place out on the primary travel with your new BMW Marine Engine.

For the sensible boat proprietor, some repairs procedures are described in this handbook. Next to a few jobs, you are going to to find this marking which indicates that the work would require unique softwares in addition to sure unique data. It is, subsequently, really useful that you simplyr authorized BMW Marine Dealer full these operations.

Table of content materials of BMW D7 Owners Manual

* ENGINE DESCRIPTION
* INSTRUMENTS AND CONTROLS
* STARTING AND OPERATING
* SERVICE & MAINTENANCE
* FUEL SYSTEM
* LUBRICATION SYSTEM
* COOLING SYSTEM
* VALVE SYSTEM
* ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
* WINTER LAY UP AND RECOMISSION


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Nissan Titan 2004 Owner and Service Manual

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2006 Nissan Titan Owners Manual

Welcome to the growing family of
new NISSAN owners. This vehicle is delivered to you with confidence. It
was produced using the latest techniques and strict quality control.

This
manual was prepared to help you understand the operation and
maintenance of your vehicle so that you may enjoy many miles
(kilometers) of driving pleasure. Please read through this manual before
operating your vehicle.

Before driving your vehicle please read
this Ownerís Manual carefully. This will ensure familiarity with
controls and maintenance requirements, assisting you in the safe
operation of your vehicle. control or an accident. Be sure to read

Table of contents 2006 Nissan Titan Owners Manual
  • Illustrated table of contents
  • SafetyóSeats, seat belts and supplemental restraint system
  • Instruments and controls
  • Pre-driving checks and adjustments
  • Heater, air conditioner and audio systems
  • Starting and driving
  • In case of emergency
  • Appearance and care
  • Maintenance and do-it-yourself
  • Technical and consumer information
  • Index
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Sunday, May 12, 2013

Ford 2010 Flex Towing Guide

The innovative Ford Flex matches the people and cargo-carrying capacity
of big SUVs, but in a sporty and assertively styled crossover that’s
perfect for everything you want to do today.

KEY FEATURES • 4,500-lb.
towing capability when equipped with Class III Trailer Tow Package,
which includes a classexclusive Trailer Sway Control • Three rows of
innovative seating for up to seven people, including best-inclass leg
room in the 2nd- and 3rd-row (Large crossover class) • Flat load surface
from front to back with fold-flat front passenger seat • Fold-flat
2nd-row seat and fold-in-floor 3rd-row seat • Standard Duratec® 3.5L
DOHC engine makes 262 hp and 248 lb.-ft. of torque! Its 6-speed
automatic transmission provides both good acceleration and unsurpassed
fuel mileage(1) in either the front-wheel or all-wheel drive models •
Available, all-new 3.5L EcoBoost V6 twin turbo-charged, direct-injection
engine with 355 hp and 350 lb.-ft. of torque, provides V8 power with V6
fuel economy(2). Download free Ford 2010 Flex Towing Guide.pdf here
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Download How To Make Biodiesel Fuel

Making your own fuel fromvegetable oil can be easy, cost-effective, and
environmentallybeneficial. What makes this fuel evenmore attractive is
that you can make itfrom the waste vegetable oil producedin the United
States every year, whichamounts to more than three billiongallons. With a
bit of know-how andpersistence, you can run any dieselengine on
vegetable oil.

Only diesel engines can run on vegetable
oil-basedfuels. This means that any engine that has spark plugsand is
made for leaded or unleaded gasoline cannotuse vegetable oil fuel. If
you want a practicalhomemade fuel for a gasoline engine, you
mightconsider making ethanol, methane, or wood gas.

Download How To Make Biodiesel Fuel
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Tuesday, April 30, 2013

2010 BMW X5 Owners Manual

2010 BMW X5 Owners Manual- "For BMW X5 in Indonesia there will be no recall or recall. Which exposed only X5s in the U.S.," said Helena Abidin when contacted Okezone (18/02/2013)
X5 recall in the United States made ​​after adaa brake fluid leak problems. As a result, brake traction is not working optimally.BMW X5 variant is affected by the recall were sold between 2007 to 2010. X5 was produced between September 12, 2006 and March 18, 2010.

BMW X5 exposed withdrawal from circulation (recall) X5 variants in large quantities in the United States. Lucky for X5 users in the country, BMW X5 in Indonesia Indonesia confirmed safe from recall.Previously rumored, BMW should do a recall to 30 thousand units in the U.S. variant of the X5. The announcement of this recall was issued last week.

Corporate Communications Director of PT BMW Indonesia, Helena Abidin explains, variants of the BMW X5, which was circulated Indonesia safe status.
Owner Manual Guide Pdf
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Friday, April 26, 2013

2012 Chevrolet Avalanche Owners Manual User Pdf

2012 Chevrolet Avalanche Owners Manual User Pdf - Avalanche is associate degree odd duck. each motortruck and SUV, its additionally neither due to its distinctive "Midgate." The Midgate may be a door in between the seating cabin and also the sixty three.3" long, 45.5 volume unit bed. Fold down the Midgate and also the second row of seating within the four-door cabin, and its doable to hold a stack of 4 x 8 laminate with the tailgate closed. The 3-piece onerous tonneau cowl makes the bed into a lockable trunk area for everyday use. With the Midgate closed, second row in situ, the Avalanches cabin is as convenient and cozy because the front 2 rows of a chivvy Tahoe. motortruck purists might scoff at the Avalanche, however it simply may be the proper answer for the client WHO solely wants pickup capability a number of the time.
Google Images
Sitting within the Avalanche drivers seat can feel terribly acquainted to anyone WHO has driven a life-size chivvy pickup or SUV within the past 5 years. Avalanches seat is generous and all-American-sized -- thats to mention, broad within the beam. One feature that Ive continually uncomprehensible within the GMT900 platform that underlies the present generation of chivvy, GMC and Cadillac life-size trucks and SUVs may be a telescopic steering column. Instead, we tend to get a tilt-adjustable wheel and power adjustable foot pedals. as luck would have it on behalf of me, the vehicle works Pine Tree State utterly -- however check your fit rigorously.

Avalanche is out there with only 1 basic powertrain: A five.3-liter V8 engine that is tuned to provide 320 H.P. and 335 lb-ft of torsion (figures square measure slightly higher with E85 fuel), attached to a six-speed automatic drive with either rear-wheel drive or simple machine drive. Curb weight is between five,840 and 5,969 lbs, thus this baby isnt any light-weight, however the ability and weight appear o.k. matched. If you would like to tow, Avalanche is prepared with seven,900 lbs (4WD) or eight,100 lbs (2WD) capability, and a payload of one,263 (4WD) or one,326 (2WD). A hefty 31.5 gallon fuel tank yields a possible 661.5 mile vary -- terribly spectacular.

The 2012 Chevrolet Avalanche LTZ four wheel drive that I drove had a base value of $50,305 ($53,715 as tested) with a 3-year/36,000-mile basic assurance, a 5-year/100,000-mile powertrain assurance and EPA fuel potency estimates of fifteen mpg city/21 mpg route. Let’s drive.

Download Here 2012 Chevrolet Avalanche Owners Manual User Pdf
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Thursday, April 11, 2013

Secrets 2012 Hyundai Sonata and Owners Manuals

2012 Hyundai Sonata luxury cars in 2012 is making me want to buy a car soon. Are you one of these?

In my opinion that after you read a review about the Hyundai Sonata 2012. You will be so impressed to see the specs and model of interior Hyundai Sonata.
Theta II turbo does not make the most sonorous of noises at tickover, but inside, noise is well controlled in both volume and tone, no matter the speed. All 274 horses gallop in at a rather Lofty 6.000 RPM, but the 269 lb-ft of torque pushes in at just 1.800 RPM and hangs out until 4.500 is showing on the tach, at roomates point the power begins to taper off. Burying the pedal while getting up to speed on the big 2.8-mile bowl, we not only observed strong acceleration that would seem to Jibe with Hyundais 0-60 mph estimate of 6.5 seconds, we also Noted impressive high-speed stability at speeds in excess of 140 miles per hour.

You can get the owners manual Hyundai Sonata here. 2012 Hyundai Sonata owners manual that must be very useful.
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Wednesday, April 10, 2013

Repair Manual 1996 BMW 318i

Free Online Repair Manual 1996 BMW 318i is possible for some people to make it easier to fix their cars. With descriptions that help to repair the problems for the BMW. Its detailed contents allow vehicle owners to personally work on their vehicle every time a mechanic just isnt available by providing easy-to-follow instructions on how to diagnose and fix the problem in the vehicle.
Among BMW enthusiasts, the 1996 BMW 318i platform is considered one of the best BMW designs of the past 20 years. Sales figures for 3 Series coupes, sedans, and convertibles were at all time highs in North America and Europe. Against other competititors, the BMW 318i would repeatedly beat out the competition and won many awards from major car magazines. The success of the BMW 318i in addition to the "quality" and "fun to drive" aspects of system gave BMW a strong market identity and presence for many.

A repair manual is really a type of media which contains step-by-step instruction manual about the procedure, maintenance, and repair of different components of your car. I hope the information I wrote article about "Free Online Repair Manual 1996 BMW 318i" can provide benefits and information thats really helpful for you.
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Components of the Suspension System


  1. Control Arm: A movable lever that fastens the steering knuckle to the frame of the vehicle.

  2. Control Arm Busing: This is a sleeve which allows the control arm to move up and down on the frame.

  3. Strut Rod: Prevents the control arm from swinging forward and backwards.

  4. Ball Joints: A joint that allows the control arm and steering knuckle to move up and down and sideways as well

  5. Shock absorbers or Struts: prevents the suspension from bounce after spring compression and extension

  6. Stabilizer Bar: Limits body roll of the vehicle during cornering

  7. Spring: Supports the weight of the vehicle 



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How to Produce More Engine Power


Car manufacturers are constantly playing with all of the following variables to make an engine more powerful and/or more fuel efficient.
1.      Increase displacement - More displacement means more power because you can burn more gas during each revolution of the engine. You can increase displacement by making the cylinders bigger or by adding more cylinders. Twelve cylinders seems to be the practical limit.
2.      Increase the compression ratio - Higher compression ratios produce more power, up to a point. The more you compress the air/fuel mixture, however, the more likely it is to spontaneously burst into flame (before the spark plug ignites it). Higher-octane gasolines prevent this sort of early combustion. That is why high-performance cars generally need high-octane gasoline -- their engines are using higher compression ratios to get more power.
3.      Stuff more into each cylinder - If you can cram more air (and therefore fuel) into a cylinder of a given size, you can get more power from the cylinder (in the same way that you would by increasing the size of the cylinder). Turbochargers and superchargers pressurize the incoming air to effectively cram more air into a cylinder. SeeHow Turbochargers Work for details.
4.      Cool the incoming air - Compressing air raises its temperature. However, you would like to have the coolest air possible in the cylinder because the hotter the air is, the less it will expand when combustion takes place. Therefore, many turbocharged and supercharged cars have an intercooler. An intercooler is a special radiator through which the compressed air passes to cool it off before it enters the cylinder. See How Car Cooling Systems Work for details.
5.      Let air come in more easily - As a piston moves down in the intake stroke, air resistance can rob power from the engine. Air resistance can be lessened dramatically by putting two intake valves in each cylinder. Some newer cars are also using polished intake manifolds to eliminate air resistance there. Bigger air filters can also improve air flow.
6.      Let exhaust exit more easily - If air resistance makes it hard for exhaust to exit a cylinder, it robs the engine of power. Air resistance can be lessened by adding a second exhaust valve to each cylinder (a car with two intake and two exhaust valves has four valves per cylinder, which improves performance -- when you hear a car ad tell you the car has four cylinders and 16 valves, what the ad is saying is that the engine has four valves per cylinder). If the exhaust pipe is too small or the muffler has a lot of air resistance, this can cause back-pressure, which has the same effect. High-performance exhaust systems use headers, big tail pipes and free-flowing mufflers to eliminate back-pressure in the exhaust system. When you hear that a car has "dual exhaust," the goal is to improve the flow of exhaust by having two exhaust pipes instead of one.
7.      Make everything lighter - Lightweight parts help the engine perform better. Each time a piston changes direction, it uses up energy to stop the travel in one direction and start it in another. The lighter the piston, the less energy it takes.   
8.  Inject the fuel - Fuel injection allows very precise metering of fuel to each cylinder. This improves performance and fuel economy.

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Sunday, April 7, 2013

Yamaha XT600E XT500E Owner s Manual

Owners Manual : Yamaha XT600E, XT500E Owner`s Manual
Yamaha XT600E, XT500E Owner`s Manual.PDF contents : GIVE SAFETY THE RIGHT OF WAY, DESCRIPTION, INSTRUMENT AND CONTROL FUNCTIONS [ Main switch/steering lock ~ Indicator lights ~ Speedometer unit ~ Tachometer ~ Handlebar switches ~ Clutch lever ~ Shift pedal ~ Brake lever ~ Brake pedal ~ Fuel tank cap ~ Fuel ~ Fuel cock ~ Starter (choke) knob ~ Seat ~ Helmet holder ~ Adjusting the shock absorber assembly ~ Sidestand ~ Ignition circuit cut-off system ], PRE-OPERATION CHECKS, OPERATION AND IMPORTANT RIDING POINTS [ Starting the engine ~ Starting a warm engine ~ Shifting ~ Recommended shift points (for Switzerland only) ~ Tips for reducing fuel consumption ~ Engine break-in ~ Parking ], PERIODIC MAINTENANCE AND MINOR REPAIR [ Owners tool kit ~ Periodic maintenance and lubrication chart ~ Removing and installing the cowling and panels ~ Checking the spark plug ~ Engine oil and oil filter element ~ Cleaning the air filter element ~ Adjusting the carburetor ~ Adjusting the engine idling speed ~ Adjusting the throttle cable free play ~ Adjusting the valve clearance ~ Tires ~ Spoke wheels ~ Adjusting the clutch lever free play ~ Adjusting the brake lever free play ~ Adjusting the brake pedal position ~ Adjusting the rear brake light switch ~ Checking the front and rear brake pads ~ Checking the brake fluid level ~ Changing the brake fluid ~ Drive chain slack ~ Lubricating the drive chain ~ Checking and lubricating the cables ~ Checking and lubricating the throttle grip and cable ~ Checking and lubricating the brake and shift pedals ~ Checking and lubricating the brake and clutch levers ~ Checking and lubricating the sidestand ~ Lubricating the rear suspension ~ Checking the front fork ~ Checking the steering ~ Checking the wheel bearings ~ Battery ~ Replacing the fuse ~ Replacing the headlight bulb ~ Replacing a turn signal light bulb ~ Replacing the tail/brake light bulb ~ Supporting the motorcycle ~ Front wheel ~ Rear wheel ~ Troubleshooting ~ Troubleshooting chart ] and more.......
download -  Manual : Yamaha XT600E, XT500E Owner`s Manual
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Friday, April 5, 2013

PDF 1990 – 2000 Mitsubishi Galant – Mirage Diamante Chiltons Service repair Manual

1990 – 2000 Mitsubishi Galant The beginning of the book will likely be referred to the most, since that is where you will find information for maintenancea nd tune-up.T he others ectionsd eal with the more complex systems of your vehicle. Operating systems from engine through brakes are covered to the extent that the average do-it-yourselfer becomes mechanically involved. This book will not explain sucht hings as rebuildinga differentialf or the simple reason that the expertise required and the investment in special tools make this task uneconomical. It will, however, give you detailed instructions to help you change your own brake pads and shoes, replace spark plugs, and perform many more jobs that can save you money, give you personal satisfaction and help you avoid expensive problems. A secondaryp urposeo f this book is a referencefo r ownersw ho want to understandth eir vehicle and/or their mechanics better.

Download: 1990 – 2000 Mitsubishi Galant – Mirage Diamante Chilton’s Service repair Manual
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Audi A3 Crankcase Breather Supplemental Check

There are three items on the 2.0T FSI engine that will most likely fail: The Coils, the Diverter Valve, and the Crankcase Breather (or PCV) Valve. The breather valve tends to fail and allow boost pressure from the manifold to leak into the crankcase. Two effects of this are (a) reduced performance from the lost boost, and (b) oil being blown out around the oil filler cap. Plus, its generally not healthy for the engine. Yes, this is what the breather valve is designed to prevent, but its not reliably doing its job. A new revision of the stock valve (revision "G") has been released by Audi. It requires four new parts - the new PCV valve is dependent on another new pipe with an integrated checkvalve that the older part does not have:


06F 129 101 G New breather (PCV) valve
06F 103 215 A New pipe with checkvalve
06F 103 483 E Gasket
06F 145 757 F Gasket


The part numbers listed above are the recommended solution.

When I install those parts, Ill post an article with instructions.






Before these new parts were available, another means was devised to supplement the stock brather valve, and either protect for a non-failed valve or compensate for a failed one. The solution was originally posted by digitalhippie on the VWVortex 2.0T FSI forum. He located a check valve that was heat- and solvent-resistant, and which had opening and holding pressures that would work perfectly for this application. Putting this checkvalve in the breather line would prevent backpressure from reaching the original breather valve and leaking past it. I provided him with photos of how he originally described implementing the fix, but at the same time I posted that I would probably improve upon the idea by using silicone hoses.

The thing with finding silicone hoses is that the fittings on the engine work best with 19mm ID hose, and the new checkvalve fits tightly in 16mm ID hose. I located 19mm --> 16mm reducing elbow hoses and tried them as part of a new checkvalve assembly. The valve will screw tightly into the 16mm ends of the elbows (trimming of excess hose length is necessary), and I have so far not found the need to clamp the hose at the valve since it fits so tightly. The seal is such that no thread blow-by can occur.

I discussed this idea with the hose vendor, and they were cautious about using non-flurolined hoses because of possible degradation due to oil exposure. Given this, Im going to keep an eye on the hoses to see what the long-term effects are, but Im not overly concerned because the amount of oil exposure is relatively small.

Note: Several people who have tried this solution have reported failure of the checkvalve. This could be due to damage from applying too much clamping force on the valve instead of using tightly fitting hoses like I did, but there is no definitive answer as to what caused the valve failures. This article is provided for information only, do this at your own risk.


Installation of the McMaster valve:

This is the valve. It is available ONLY from McMaster-Carr. The part number is: 1424T37 (Nylon Spring-Loaded Piston Check Valve 1/2" NPT Male Inlet X 1/2" NPT Male Outlet).


This is the stock pipe that we will replace. Note the direction of flow! When you install your new valve & hose assembly, make sure to verify that the valve flows in the correct direction!



This is the new hose and valve assembly. The hoses must be trimmed slightly on each end. The silicone reducing elbows were obtained from Forge Motorsport.



If you are still using the stock engine cover (e.g. you dont have a third-party intake that eliminates the cover), then the hoses have to be arranged to fit in a particular space in the underside of the cover to prevent pinching. This is why the upper portion of the new hose assembly is a little bit longer and doesnt look quite symmetrical in the photo. This photo shows the underside of the engine cover with the stock hose laying in the groove (with the new McMaster valve beside it) for illustration purposes of how the replacement hose would need to route as well.
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BMW Vehicle Communication Software Owners Manual

There are many variations in procedures, techniques, tools, and parts for servicing vehicles, as well as in the skill of the individual doing the work. Because of the vast number of test applications and variations in the products that can be tested with this instrument, we cannot possibly anticipate or provide advice or safety messages to cover every situation. It is the responsibility of the automotive technician to be knowledgeable of the system being tested. It is essential to use proper service methods and test procedures and to perform tests in an appropriate and acceptable manner that does not endanger your safety, the safety of others in the work area, or vehicle or equipment being tested. Safety messages in this manual contain a signal word with an icon. The signal word indicates the level of the hazard in a situation. Signal words used in this manual are explained below.
Download: MW Vehicle Communication Software Manual
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Thursday, April 4, 2013

Audi TT DIY Fixing Your License Plate Lights

Vehicle: 1997 A4

Problem: Rear license plate lights no longer work

Tools: #10 socket, #2 Philips screw driver, torx set

Parts: 8D0 943 022 A, 8D0 943 022

Standard disclaimer: Im not liable for the stupid things you do!

Ok, lets get started. First you will need to remove the 9 felt covered screws from the trunk lid. Once you have removed those, remove the two Philips screws inside of the trunk lid handle. The felt liner should pull away, although you may have to wiggle it around to get it to free itself.



Once the liner is removed, you will need to remove the two nuts from the locking cylinder mechanism.



The next step is to remove the two torx screws that hold the light molding in place. They are located on either side of the locking cylinder mechanism. You should see an access hole through the sheet metal.



At this point you will need to unplug the two wire connecters. I used a small flathead screwdriver to pry the connectors off. As you can see mine were pretty badly corroded!



The entire light assembly should pull off the trunk now. Remove the two screws holding on the clear plastic covers for the lamps. On the back of the light assembly are four screws that hold the lights in. Remove them and the lights should pull out. As you can see, more corrosion. One of the contacts is completely gone!



New light:



The next step is to reinstall your new lights into the trim piece.



From this point on everything is in reverse. Hope this helps somebody down the road.

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Audi A8 Tiptronic Shifter Removal

There are several reasons why you might want to remove the shifter and surrounding wood trim in an A8. Possibilities include:

  • Removal of the wood trim to polish and remove scratches. This area usually takes the most abuse from items getting placed on top of it.

  • Removal of the aluminum shifter trim for polishing.

  • Repairing /replacing LED backlighting for the shift indicator lights.

  • As part of doing a Tiptronic upgrade on a 1997 US bound A8.

  • Cleaning of the rubber “tractor” shift guide. If your shifter is getting harder to move through the gears, cleaning might help. In my case, this was necessary due to a spilled drink, but Im sure they all get a gunk build up over time.
The main objective of this procedure is to show you how to get the shifter assembly apart so that you can do any of the above. Ill share some of the polishing techniques that I used in my project as well.

Time
Varies widely depending on what you do. Figure 45 minutes or so to get it opened up.

Tools Required
  • “T” handle 6mm hex works best although an Allen wrench would work too

  • Trim removal tools
Procedure
You can find the instructions on how to remove and reinstall the side panels here. If you have a facelift car, youll need a 5mm allen wrench to remove the switch under the gas pedal.

Remove both the driver and passenger floor mats AND the sound insulation underneath. The sound insulation is the same shape as the floor mat only its much thicker and heavier.

On the drivers side, remove the two plastic inserts in the knee bolster below the steering wheel. They pop right out and will expose 6mm hex screws. Remove those screws and the whole piece will tilt down out of the way. Carefully prop it against the floor. You dont really need to remove it entirely for this project. Dont break the OBD harness, it will still be attached. Pictures and detailed description can be found here.

On the passenger side, look for a rectangular Velcro section on the transmission hump carpeting. Its around ankle height on the left side as you are sitting in the seat. Pull that back, remove the small plastic cover (pry off with a screwdriver) and remove the Philips screw.

In order to get the shifter assembly apart, you now need to remove the side panels to expose 6mm hex screws. Two of them secure the wood trim and two secure the aluminum shifter piece. Pull the side panels down and out on both the driver and passenger sides. They have tabs that catch behind the center console.

Once the side panels are out of the way (get them out of the car), look on each side, behind where the side panels were installed, for the 6mm hex screws and remove them. If you are taking out BOTH the shifter and wood trim, remove all four.



What is being shown in this picture are the tabs that are attached to the wood trim. Some of you have been successful in just “prying” this piece out. PLEASE check and see if the 6mm screws are installed (and remove them) before you try and pry it out. Otherwise, you will break it for sure and something tells me this isnt a $10 part J


Once the screws are removed, you can pry up on the wood trim and remove it. There will be some friction from the rubber gasket but it will come straight up and out.

If you have removed the screws for the aluminum shifter, it will pull straight up as well but will NOT come out until you do two more things. Depending on what youre doing, this might be far enough do get what you need done. If you want to completely remove it, go to the step below.

Completely Removing the Shifter
If you are at this step, the wood trim has been removed and the aluminum shifter should be loose but still connected. If you want to remove it completely, do the following.



Disconnect the two wiring harnesses on the left hand side. Youll probably need to cut the zip ties that hold the connectors in place.

Remove the shifter. This can be a little tricky but let me explain. Just below the leather part of the shift knob, there is an aluminum collar that you need to loosen. Carefully wedge a screwdriver between the bottom of the leather and the top of the collar and press down. Its pretty tight but mine came off right away. I dont think you can “pull” it down with your hands so I came up with the screwdriver method. It goes without saying to do this carefully in case the screwdriver slips. I did it in one shot so hopefully its no big deal.

Once thats done, pull the shift button OUT and pull UP to remove the shifter. Just to clarify, the shift selector button is the one you push in with your thumb before selecting the gear. Note when reinstalling: you will need to use a pair of needle nose pliers to “grab” the shift button in order to pull it back out so you can reinstall it.



At this point the disassembly is complete and you can access pretty much everything related to the center console and shifter. Assembly is the reverse for all steps.

A couple of notes that might be helpful:
  • I used a combination of wet sanding and 3 grits of polish on the wood trim. If yours is in pretty good shape you might be able to just polish or use Meguairs scratch remover. This is probably trial and error until you are happy with the results. The clearcoat looks pretty thick so theres a lot of material to work with. Reinstalling with the 6mm screws is optional. The rubber surround holds it tightly in place. This also means youll be able to pop it right back out without all of the disassembly the next time.

  • If youre polishing the aluminum trim, I would recommend removing the shift indicator buttons by peeling off the white tape and pushing them out. You will also need to remove the white plastic piece on the back by prying out the four circle clips that hold it on. If you got this far, you wont get stumped with these details. At this point, you be left with just a machined piece of aluminum. I started with 240 grit sandpaper (deep scratches), 320, 400, 500 and then #00, #000, #0000 steel wool. Theres either an anodized coating or clearcoat that you will need to get through before you hit the aluminum. I think any of the grits of sandpaper will get through this pretty fast. I did mine in more of a brushed aluminum look by making the #000 steel wool the last step. If you want to get back to a highly polished finish, you will need to do some buffing too. I replaced these screws but you will notice that this piece is keyed when you reinstall it. You could probably get away without these too, which would eliminate most of this procedure if you wanted to this again.





  • The rubber “tractor” looking piece has a pretty tight tolerance and needs to be clean in order to work smoothly. While you have everything opened up, clean it well and use some armor all so that its slippery. I had to do a more extensive cleaning on the plastic guides as it kept getting stuck. Unfortunately, you cant really “test” it until the shifter is reassembled. It needs to be held down in order to work correctly.
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1998 Toyota camry CE Sedan L4 2164cc 2 2L DOHC MFI repair manual

1998 Toyota camry CE Sedan L4-2164cc 2.2L DOHC MFI repair manual. MIL ON – DTC P1133 Updated (Oxygen Sensor Circuit) ENGINE EG004-01 April 20, 2001 Title: M.I.L. “ON” P1133 Models: ‘97 – ‘99 Camry and ‘99 Solara Introduction…Under certain driving conditions, some 1997 – 1999 5S-FE California emission specification Camrys and 1999 5S-FE California emission specification Solaras may exhibit a M.I.L. “ON” with DTC P1133 (Air Fuel Ratio Sensor Slow Response Malfunction). An improved Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor was developed to correct this condition (See TSB EG006-99). In some rare cases, P1133 may still set after the improved A/F sensor is installed. The Engine Control Module (ECM) logic has been modified to correct this condition. Applicable Vehicles Top – Vehicle Technical Service Bulletins .

Download: 1998 Toyota camry CE Sedan L4-2164cc 2.2L DOHC MFI repair manual
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Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Honda Jazz Fit Factory Service Manual

Honda Jazz Fit Factory Service Manual. Honda Fit Factory Service Manual, and the electrical troubleshooting manual.what you see is what you will receive,
Tons of information and illustrations, covers alot,no missing pages
•Workshop / Service Repair Manual for the 2001–2008 (Global)
or 2006-2008 (North America) Honda fit (First Generation).
• Repair, Maintain, Rebuild, Refurbish or Restore Your Vehicle.
• This is the same type of manual that is used by your local dealer/workshop!!!
• This manual is the same as those used by your mechanic to work on your vehicle.
• Save yourself hundreds in repair bills!
• You don’t need any special technical know how to use this manual. This manual is very easy to use!
• Once you have found your information, just print it out and start working. No more messy manuals that you have to keep replacing or can’t use any more due to wear and tear.
• Repair Manual Software Program from Honda NOT PDF.
• Languages included: English, German, French, Italian, Spanish, Polish, Czech, Hungarian, Portugueese and Dutch.

Download: Honda Jazz Fit Factory Service Manual
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Caterpillar 740B Articulated Truck Owners Manual

No operator interaction. Strong, durable Cat ACERT™ engines with the Tier 4 Interim/EU Stage lllB exhaust emission solution and electronically controlled smooth shifting transmissions deliver high productivity with low fuel consumption. There are significant changes/improvements to the engine/transmission software that result in smoother gear changes.The Cat® C15 ACERT™ engine continues the evolutionary, incremental improvements that provide breakthrough engine technology built on systems and components developed by Caterpillar with proven reliability. CatmClean Emissions Module (CEM) CEM is an exhaust aftertreatment package consisting of a diesel particulate filter, and control systems. The CEM reduces particulate emissions using passive and active regeneration during normal engine operation. Cat NOx Reduction System (NRS) The Cat NOx Reduction System (NRS) captures and cools a small quantity of exhaust gas, then routes it into the combustion chamber where it drives down combustion temperatures and reduces NOx emissions. Fuel Delivery Mechanically actuated Electronic Unit Injection (MEUI-C) multiple injection fuel delivery involves a high degree of precision. Precisely shaping the combustion cycle lowers combustion chamber temperatures, generating fewer emissions and optimizing fuel combustion. This translates into more work output for your fuel cost.

Download: Caterpillar 740B Articulated Truck Owners Manual
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2006 Hyundai Azera Owners Manual

2006 Hyundai Azera Owners Manual. User and Operator’s Manual for 2006 Hyundai Azera. Engine Type: 3.8 L 6-Cylinder, V-type DOHC. Free PDF Service and Owner’s Manual Download.able of contents Features of your Hyundai Driving your Hyundai What to do in an emergency Corrosion prevention & appearance care Vehicle maintenance requirements Do-it-yourself maintenance Emission control systems Consumer information, reporting safety defects & Binding arbitration of warranty claims Vehicle specifications Index INSTRUMENTS AND CONTROLS (I) 1. Panel Brightness Control Knob (Rheostat Switch). 1-87 2. Electronic Stability Control (ESC) Switch (If Installed). 2-11 3. Power Adjustable Pedals Switch (If Installed). 2-10 4. Steering Wheel Tilt & Telescopic Lever. 1-117 5. Hood Release Lever. 1-113 6. Cigarette Lighter. 1-87 7. Front Ashtray. 1-88 8. Front Seat Warmer Swit.


Download: 2006 Hyundai Azera Owners Manual
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Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Audi Q7 Minor DIY Patch ReSpray

Since Ive done this a few times now, I figured its time to share what Ive learned… plus Ive been hit up a few times to write this DIYr, so here goes.

This will be PART I of the DIYr. I will follow up shortly with the rest including photos. Just wanted to get this part out of the way since ppl are asking.

Keep in mind, this type of DIYr is not black and white, it will take some patients along with trial and error. And remember, dont panic, if you screw up, the worst that can happen is you have to redo it - it may cost you some more time and paint, but with paint, nothing is permanent.

WARNING: I do not recommend first timers of this type of DIYr to try this on anything other than bumpers and valences - re-spraying door panels, hoods, fenders, etc takes a lot of practice and should NOT be attempted unless you feel super confident.

ITEMS NEEDED:
- 100 grit wet/dry sand paper
- 300 grit wet/dry sand paper
- 600 grit wet/dry sand paper
- 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper

(you can buy the larger sheets and cut them to size or buy the smaller stuff already pre-cut to fit the sanding blocks I will list below - I found that buying the bigger sheets gives you more for your money and you can always save the left overs for a future mod)

- Sponge sanding block
- Hard rubber sanding block

- Blue painters tape
- Masking paper (can be any kind of paper, but the brown paper rolls you get from Home Depot in the painters section seem to be cheep and work super well)

- Depending on the task at hand, you may need some sort of body filler to fill in holes or deep scratches on the item that you are painting. For items that are flexible such as bumpers and valences, bondo makes a two-part filler that when dry, stays somewhat flexible. For items that are hard and rigid, you can use any type of body filler that you are comfortable with.

- Plastic spreaders

- Rubbing compound
- Wax
- Applicator pads
- soft towels/cloths (for wax and compound removal)
- Some sort of power tool to apply wax/rubbing compound. You can use goodol elbow grease, but I find that a cordless drill and a applicator pad attachment saves a lot of time and energy and the results are much more apparent.

- Applicator pad attachment

- bucket (for clean water and for soapy water)
- sponge (to wash items being painted
- towel (to dry off washed items)

- Primer paint
- Base coat paint
- Clear coat paint
- Adhesive Promoter (if painting something plastic/rubber)
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Audi A3 V1 Hardwiring

I just finished hardwiring my V1, using the sunroof method, and Im all smiles!!! It took me about 2 hours to figure out what was what, and then when I was finished, it was all worth it. I will try to get some pictures taken, I really didnt even think about it till I was done.

Keep in mind, this was on a B6, so I dont know if its that easy for a B5 or B7, but it might be the same. I didnt want to run a ground wire all the way throught the A-pillar, and down to the fuse box. There are 2 bolts that you can ground to less than 6 inches from where the 12v lead is. The only problem is that they are underneath the headliner, and a #*@&! to get too, unless you are using a small @ss wrench. It took me a while to get the bolt loose, to get the negative ground on there.

I mounted the V1 above the rearview mirror, to the right side.

I really need pictures on here! Sorry, but I had to rant, very happy with it!

Ok, so here are some pictures!!!


I started by removing the plastic coverings to the lights, which allow you to see two phillips head screws. Remove these, and the whole piece will drop out of the headliner with a little pull.


This picture shows where the 12V lead is plugged into... This is a switched lead, which turns on and off with the cars ignition, perfect for a radar detector.


A close up of the 12V lead...


This is where I put the negative ground to... Its a realy pain in the @ss to get too, but if you use a small wrench, you can get the bolt loose, and put your lead between the bolt and the frame of the car... I would not reccomend removing the bolt completly, because it might be that much harder to get it back on... If you dont use this location for a ground, you may find yourself trying to route a negative ground wire all the way down to your fuse box, and who really wants to do that?


A close up of the pain in the @ss bolt, A.K.A. "Negative Ground"


The finished product!!! Just tuck all of your loose wires into the headliner somewhere. I would reccomend that you zip tie the extra cabling, so that if you have to open up the compartment again, you dont have a bunch of cables drop down. All in all, you are left with a clean looking radar mount position, about 4 inches of coord thats visible, and the radar unit is just below the factory tint level, which does not inhibit the radar detectors performance. Very happy with it!
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Audi TT DIY DesignParts Armrest w modified cup holder

So now my armrest is finally installed, and Ive modified the cup holders after being inspired by Jeff Bipes method (thanks for the wonderful idea Jeff!!)


Heres the quick how-to of the install:


1. First Im going to assume that the armrest is already installed with the tunnel cover off, as shown below:



The removal of the cup holders on the stock tunnel cover, as well as the installation of the armrest in the tunnel, is very well explained by the instructions provided with the Design Parts armrest, so I wont spend any time on this..


2. Here are the cup holders still attached to the tunnel cover:




3. To disassemble the cup holder piece from the tunner cover itself, remove the two dimpled aluminum covers - they can easily come off with your nails, or if you dont have any, a small flat-head screwdriver:




4. Removing the dimpled aluminum covers reveals a screw on one side, which is held by a nut on the other side. Remove the screw using a T15 bit:




5. Now you can see the mechanics of the rubber "flaps" that hold down your cups or glasses - its just one piece with two ends, kept under tension by a spring:






6. After removing the rubber flap piece and the spring, you can see the screw that holds the cupholders down to the tunnel cover:



Take that screw out (again with a T15 bit), while careful not to lose the washer as well.



7. Now in order to know where to cut, tape off the ends of the aluminum rails and the side of the plastic base you want to remove (either side if fine, as the cupholders are symetrical) with masking tape or electric tape:




8. To make the cutting job easier, remove the vertical center plastic piece off by twisting in the direction shown, while pushing down on the cupholder base to free it from the aluminum rails:




9. I first cut the base off to give more room for the aluminum rail, which are much stronger hence harder to cut:




Note that screw to the left of the following picture, on the aluminum rim - it holds the plastic base and the two aluminum rails together:




10. Now to the actual cutting of the aluminum - I used a circular blade to make the job quick & easy, but it still took a lot of dexterity to cut at the right place:




11. To smoothen the ends, I used a dremel tool with a fine drum sander bit:




12. Unfortunately the rubber flap cannot be cut in half, as the spring would lose its counter-part to load tension on the other flap which we will end up using. Instead, the flap that will be unused must be trimmed a bit to fit between the arms of the armrest (sounds funny doesnt it).

Heres where to cut:



and heres the flap after it was cut:




13. Now on to the final mutilation of the day: set the cupholder (note the lack of "s" now..) on the tunnel cover. You have to choices: cut the original tunnel cover so that it fits around the arms of the armrest (I know, I know..) or make 2 little holes in the tunnel cover provided the armrest to screw the cupholder in it. I chose the latter option, as I thought making 2 U-shaped cuts in the stock tunnel cover would be more painful than just drilling two holes..

To do that, place the covers side-by-side (vertically then horizontally) to get an exact duplicate of the position of the holes, and drill away:




14. Under the original tunnel cover, youll notice a rectangular-shaped metal piece with a drilled hole in it. Youll need to "steal" that piece (its lightly glued on, so just pry it off gently) and place it under your new tunnel cover:




15. Now everything needs to be put back together. Replace the vertical plastic center piece you took out in step 8 over the cupholders base and between the aluminum rails, insert the screw and its washer you took out during step 4 back in the vertical center piece, guide it through the hole and into the rectangular metal piece on the inside of the tunnel cover, re-assemble the spring and rubber flap (keeping in mind which end goes where) over the vertical center piece, slide the screw you took out in step 4 through the aluminum rails and vertical pieces holes and screw it into its nut, and replace the dimpled aluminum covers you took out in step 3:




16. Finally, take your new "chef-doeuvre" (masterpiece) and snap it under the armrest!







Thats it!!
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