Wednesday, May 15, 2013
Manual installation of exhaust systems for CT Suzuki Hayabusa 2008
Many of our customers use WD-40 applied for joints to ease mounting, adaptation and/or disassembly. Step 3: Remove bodywork: remove all push pins, starting with 2 under the motorcycle fairings, holding two side together. Then remove the pins of two push behind the wheel front holding the bottom of the screen for side fairings.
Remove the screen (piece of Chin). Remove the belly pan, disconnecting the pins to push back the regulator/rectifier and 4 mm Allen screw on the right side below the assembly of peg and foot brake. Remove mm (2) 4 Allen screws on the right side fairing, and (2) screws below the handle bars (one black, one silver). Repeat on the left side of the bike.
Download Complete 2008 Suzuki Hayabusa CT Installation Manual of exhaust systems.
Testing Transmission Systems Acura
This chapter contains information for testing Acura vehicles with the Asian Import Vehicle Communication Software (VCS). The following Acura systems may be available for testing get here
Tuesday, May 14, 2013
2010 Acura TL Accelerated Innovation Manual
From this 2010 acura tl manual you will get an information about accelerated innovation made by acura. Taken from this manual, technology packages :
Acura Navigation System10 with Voice RecognitionTM, Traffic ReroutingTM, rearview camera and Zagat Survey® ratings and reviews
Acura/ELS Surround® 440-watt Premium 10-speaker Sound System with HDD music storage, in-dash CD, DVD-Audio, MP3, WMA6 and DTS® player, Dolby® 5 Pro Logic® II and AM/FM tuner
AcuraLink® Satellite Communication System
AcuraLink Real-Time Traffic and Weather
Keyless Access System with smart entry, push button ignition and Acura personalized settings for driver’s seat, outside mirrors, select audio and navigation settings and more
GPS-linked, solar-sensing, temperature control
Content will including :
2010 TL TRIM LEVELSTECHNOLOGY PACKAGE TL SH-AWD FEATURES and more
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ZF 5HP24 coefficient
* 5HP24 Transmission Overview (North American Applications) [ Make / Model / Model Year ]
* 5HP24 Technical Information [ Torque, Gear Ratio & Weight ~ Transmission Oil Reference Guide ~ 5HP24 Lubrications ~ 5HP24 Technical Literature ~ 5HP24 General Transmission Oil Filling Procedure ]
* 5HP24 Spare Parts [ How To Use This Catalog ~ Gearbox Housing Group ~ Input Group ~ Oil Sump Group ~ Oil Supply Group ~ Output Group ~ Converter Group ~ Parking Lock Group ~ Brake Group ~ Planetary Drive Groups ~ Clutch Pack Groups ]
* 5HP24 Valve Body [ Duct Plate Group ~ Valve Housing Groups ]
* 5HP24 Selective Shims, Snap Rings & Kit Content [ 5HP24 Selective Shims & Snap Rings ~ 5HP24 Kit Content ]
* Miscellaneous [ Quotation / Order Form ~ Notes ]
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Acer Extensa 390 Service Manual
Acer Extensa 390 Service Manual - This Acer Extensa 390 Service Manual guide contains reference info regarding the Acer Extensa 390 notebook pc. It provides sst and peripheral specifications, shows learn how to establish and solve system issues and explains the procedure for removing and replacing system parts. It too provides info for ordering spare components. This service guide aims out to furnish technical info in the service engineers and advanced users when upgrading, configuring, or repairing the Acer Extensa 390 notebook.
Acer Extensa 390 Service Manual contents
- System Introduction
- Major Chip Descriptions
- BIOS Setup Information
- Disassembly and Unit Replacement
- Model Number Definition
- Exploded View Diagram
- Spare Parts List
- Schematics
Monday, May 13, 2013
BMW D7 Service manual
For the sensible boat proprietor, some repairs procedures are described in this handbook. Next to a few jobs, you are going to to find this marking which indicates that the work would require unique softwares in addition to sure unique data. It is, subsequently, really useful that you simplyr authorized BMW Marine Dealer full these operations.
Table of content materials of BMW D7 Owners Manual
* ENGINE DESCRIPTION
* INSTRUMENTS AND CONTROLS
* STARTING AND OPERATING
* SERVICE & MAINTENANCE
* FUEL SYSTEM
* LUBRICATION SYSTEM
* COOLING SYSTEM
* VALVE SYSTEM
* ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
* WINTER LAY UP AND RECOMISSION
Download
Nissan Titan 2004 Owner and Service Manual
In say to tranquillize your device and the streamlined performance of the container, this exercise should be indicate soundly. It is especially chief that the PRECAUTIONS in the GI subdivision be completely interpreted before play any move duty.
Fast index:
Systemic Content
Engine Machinelike
Engine Lubrication Method
Engine Chilling Group
Engine Manipulate Method
Provide Scheme
Gas System
Valve Prove System
Coefficient
Semiautomatic Transmission
Delegate
Propellor Airway
Advance Inalterable Force
Erect Unalterable Journey
Foremost Axle
Parent Axle
Cheater Hanging
Erect Hanging
Route Wheels & Tires
Thicket Grouping
Parking Copse Grouping
Brushwood Know Method
Powerfulness Management Scheme
Center Belts
Supplemental Discipline Scheme
Embody, Hair & Assets Group
Glasses, Pane System & Mirrors
Roof
Exterior & Indoor
Way Window
Position
Adjustable Treadle
Air Conditioner
Turn & Charging System
Lighting Method
Driver Information Grouping
Contact, Washer & Alarm
Embody Moderate Group
LAN Grouping
Audio Visible, Piloting & Telecom System
Motorcar Cruise Know Method
Land Activity, Percept & Racetrack Elements
Upkeep
download Nissan Titan 2004 Owner and Service Manual
2006 Nissan Titan Owners Manual
new NISSAN owners. This vehicle is delivered to you with confidence. It
was produced using the latest techniques and strict quality control.
This
manual was prepared to help you understand the operation and
maintenance of your vehicle so that you may enjoy many miles
(kilometers) of driving pleasure. Please read through this manual before
operating your vehicle.
Before driving your vehicle please read
this OwnerÃs Manual carefully. This will ensure familiarity with
controls and maintenance requirements, assisting you in the safe
operation of your vehicle. control or an accident. Be sure to read
Table of contents 2006 Nissan Titan Owners Manual
- Illustrated table of contents
- SafetyóSeats, seat belts and supplemental restraint system
- Instruments and controls
- Pre-driving checks and adjustments
- Heater, air conditioner and audio systems
- Starting and driving
- In case of emergency
- Appearance and care
- Maintenance and do-it-yourself
- Technical and consumer information
- Index
Sunday, May 12, 2013
Ford 2010 Flex Towing Guide
of big SUVs, but in a sporty and assertively styled crossover that’s
perfect for everything you want to do today.
KEY FEATURES • 4,500-lb.
towing capability when equipped with Class III Trailer Tow Package,
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innovative seating for up to seven people, including best-inclass leg
room in the 2nd- and 3rd-row (Large crossover class) • Flat load surface
from front to back with fold-flat front passenger seat • Fold-flat
2nd-row seat and fold-in-floor 3rd-row seat • Standard Duratec® 3.5L
DOHC engine makes 262 hp and 248 lb.-ft. of torque! Its 6-speed
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fuel mileage(1) in either the front-wheel or all-wheel drive models •
Available, all-new 3.5L EcoBoost V6 twin turbo-charged, direct-injection
engine with 355 hp and 350 lb.-ft. of torque, provides V8 power with V6
fuel economy(2). Download free Ford 2010 Flex Towing Guide.pdf here
Download How To Make Biodiesel Fuel
environmentallybeneficial. What makes this fuel evenmore attractive is
that you can make itfrom the waste vegetable oil producedin the United
States every year, whichamounts to more than three billiongallons. With a
bit of know-how andpersistence, you can run any dieselengine on
vegetable oil.
Only diesel engines can run on vegetable
oil-basedfuels. This means that any engine that has spark plugsand is
made for leaded or unleaded gasoline cannotuse vegetable oil fuel. If
you want a practicalhomemade fuel for a gasoline engine, you
mightconsider making ethanol, methane, or wood gas.
Download How To Make Biodiesel Fuel
Tuesday, April 30, 2013
2010 BMW X5 Owners Manual
Friday, April 26, 2013
2012 Chevrolet Avalanche Owners Manual User Pdf
Google Images |
Thursday, April 11, 2013
Secrets 2012 Hyundai Sonata and Owners Manuals
In my opinion that after you read a review about the Hyundai Sonata 2012. You will be so impressed to see the specs and model of interior Hyundai Sonata.
You can get the owners manual Hyundai Sonata here. 2012 Hyundai Sonata owners manual that must be very useful.
Wednesday, April 10, 2013
Repair Manual 1996 BMW 318i
Among BMW enthusiasts, the 1996 BMW 318i platform is considered one of the best BMW designs of the past 20 years. Sales figures for 3 Series coupes, sedans, and convertibles were at all time highs in North America and Europe. Against other competititors, the BMW 318i would repeatedly beat out the competition and won many awards from major car magazines. The success of the BMW 318i in addition to the "quality" and "fun to drive" aspects of system gave BMW a strong market identity and presence for many.
A repair manual is really a type of media which contains step-by-step instruction manual about the procedure, maintenance, and repair of different components of your car. I hope the information I wrote article about "Free Online Repair Manual 1996 BMW 318i" can provide benefits and information thats really helpful for you.
Components of the Suspension System
- Control Arm: A movable lever that fastens the steering knuckle to the frame of the vehicle.
- Control Arm Busing: This is a sleeve which allows the control arm to move up and down on the frame.
- Strut Rod: Prevents the control arm from swinging forward and backwards.
- Ball Joints: A joint that allows the control arm and steering knuckle to move up and down and sideways as well
- Shock absorbers or Struts: prevents the suspension from bounce after spring compression and extension
- Stabilizer Bar: Limits body roll of the vehicle during cornering
- Spring: Supports the weight of the vehicle
How to Produce More Engine Power
Sunday, April 7, 2013
Yamaha XT600E XT500E Owner s Manual
download - Manual : Yamaha XT600E, XT500E Owner`s Manual
Friday, April 5, 2013
PDF 1990 – 2000 Mitsubishi Galant – Mirage Diamante Chiltons Service repair Manual
Download: 1990 – 2000 Mitsubishi Galant – Mirage Diamante Chilton’s Service repair Manual
Audi A3 Crankcase Breather Supplemental Check
06F 129 101 G New breather (PCV) valve
06F 103 215 A New pipe with checkvalve
06F 103 483 E Gasket
06F 145 757 F Gasket
The part numbers listed above are the recommended solution.
When I install those parts, Ill post an article with instructions.
Before these new parts were available, another means was devised to supplement the stock brather valve, and either protect for a non-failed valve or compensate for a failed one. The solution was originally posted by digitalhippie on the VWVortex 2.0T FSI forum. He located a check valve that was heat- and solvent-resistant, and which had opening and holding pressures that would work perfectly for this application. Putting this checkvalve in the breather line would prevent backpressure from reaching the original breather valve and leaking past it. I provided him with photos of how he originally described implementing the fix, but at the same time I posted that I would probably improve upon the idea by using silicone hoses.
The thing with finding silicone hoses is that the fittings on the engine work best with 19mm ID hose, and the new checkvalve fits tightly in 16mm ID hose. I located 19mm --> 16mm reducing elbow hoses and tried them as part of a new checkvalve assembly. The valve will screw tightly into the 16mm ends of the elbows (trimming of excess hose length is necessary), and I have so far not found the need to clamp the hose at the valve since it fits so tightly. The seal is such that no thread blow-by can occur.
I discussed this idea with the hose vendor, and they were cautious about using non-flurolined hoses because of possible degradation due to oil exposure. Given this, Im going to keep an eye on the hoses to see what the long-term effects are, but Im not overly concerned because the amount of oil exposure is relatively small.
Note: Several people who have tried this solution have reported failure of the checkvalve. This could be due to damage from applying too much clamping force on the valve instead of using tightly fitting hoses like I did, but there is no definitive answer as to what caused the valve failures. This article is provided for information only, do this at your own risk.
Installation of the McMaster valve:
This is the valve. It is available ONLY from McMaster-Carr. The part number is: 1424T37 (Nylon Spring-Loaded Piston Check Valve 1/2" NPT Male Inlet X 1/2" NPT Male Outlet).
This is the stock pipe that we will replace. Note the direction of flow! When you install your new valve & hose assembly, make sure to verify that the valve flows in the correct direction!
This is the new hose and valve assembly. The hoses must be trimmed slightly on each end. The silicone reducing elbows were obtained from Forge Motorsport.
If you are still using the stock engine cover (e.g. you dont have a third-party intake that eliminates the cover), then the hoses have to be arranged to fit in a particular space in the underside of the cover to prevent pinching. This is why the upper portion of the new hose assembly is a little bit longer and doesnt look quite symmetrical in the photo. This photo shows the underside of the engine cover with the stock hose laying in the groove (with the new McMaster valve beside it) for illustration purposes of how the replacement hose would need to route as well.
BMW Vehicle Communication Software Owners Manual
Download: MW Vehicle Communication Software Manual
Thursday, April 4, 2013
Audi TT DIY Fixing Your License Plate Lights
Problem: Rear license plate lights no longer work
Tools: #10 socket, #2 Philips screw driver, torx set
Parts: 8D0 943 022 A, 8D0 943 022
Standard disclaimer: Im not liable for the stupid things you do!
Ok, lets get started. First you will need to remove the 9 felt covered screws from the trunk lid. Once you have removed those, remove the two Philips screws inside of the trunk lid handle. The felt liner should pull away, although you may have to wiggle it around to get it to free itself.
Once the liner is removed, you will need to remove the two nuts from the locking cylinder mechanism.
The next step is to remove the two torx screws that hold the light molding in place. They are located on either side of the locking cylinder mechanism. You should see an access hole through the sheet metal.
At this point you will need to unplug the two wire connecters. I used a small flathead screwdriver to pry the connectors off. As you can see mine were pretty badly corroded!
The entire light assembly should pull off the trunk now. Remove the two screws holding on the clear plastic covers for the lamps. On the back of the light assembly are four screws that hold the lights in. Remove them and the lights should pull out. As you can see, more corrosion. One of the contacts is completely gone!
New light:
The next step is to reinstall your new lights into the trim piece.
From this point on everything is in reverse. Hope this helps somebody down the road.
Audi A8 Tiptronic Shifter Removal
- Removal of the wood trim to polish and remove scratches. This area usually takes the most abuse from items getting placed on top of it.
- Removal of the aluminum shifter trim for polishing.
- Repairing /replacing LED backlighting for the shift indicator lights.
- As part of doing a Tiptronic upgrade on a 1997 US bound A8.
- Cleaning of the rubber “tractor” shift guide. If your shifter is getting harder to move through the gears, cleaning might help. In my case, this was necessary due to a spilled drink, but Im sure they all get a gunk build up over time.
Time
Varies widely depending on what you do. Figure 45 minutes or so to get it opened up.
Tools Required
- “T” handle 6mm hex works best although an Allen wrench would work too
- Trim removal tools
You can find the instructions on how to remove and reinstall the side panels here. If you have a facelift car, youll need a 5mm allen wrench to remove the switch under the gas pedal.
Remove both the driver and passenger floor mats AND the sound insulation underneath. The sound insulation is the same shape as the floor mat only its much thicker and heavier.
On the drivers side, remove the two plastic inserts in the knee bolster below the steering wheel. They pop right out and will expose 6mm hex screws. Remove those screws and the whole piece will tilt down out of the way. Carefully prop it against the floor. You dont really need to remove it entirely for this project. Dont break the OBD harness, it will still be attached. Pictures and detailed description can be found here.
On the passenger side, look for a rectangular Velcro section on the transmission hump carpeting. Its around ankle height on the left side as you are sitting in the seat. Pull that back, remove the small plastic cover (pry off with a screwdriver) and remove the Philips screw.
In order to get the shifter assembly apart, you now need to remove the side panels to expose 6mm hex screws. Two of them secure the wood trim and two secure the aluminum shifter piece. Pull the side panels down and out on both the driver and passenger sides. They have tabs that catch behind the center console.
Once the side panels are out of the way (get them out of the car), look on each side, behind where the side panels were installed, for the 6mm hex screws and remove them. If you are taking out BOTH the shifter and wood trim, remove all four.
Once the screws are removed, you can pry up on the wood trim and remove it. There will be some friction from the rubber gasket but it will come straight up and out.
If you have removed the screws for the aluminum shifter, it will pull straight up as well but will NOT come out until you do two more things. Depending on what youre doing, this might be far enough do get what you need done. If you want to completely remove it, go to the step below.
Completely Removing the Shifter
If you are at this step, the wood trim has been removed and the aluminum shifter should be loose but still connected. If you want to remove it completely, do the following.
Disconnect the two wiring harnesses on the left hand side. Youll probably need to cut the zip ties that hold the connectors in place.
Remove the shifter. This can be a little tricky but let me explain. Just below the leather part of the shift knob, there is an aluminum collar that you need to loosen. Carefully wedge a screwdriver between the bottom of the leather and the top of the collar and press down. Its pretty tight but mine came off right away. I dont think you can “pull” it down with your hands so I came up with the screwdriver method. It goes without saying to do this carefully in case the screwdriver slips. I did it in one shot so hopefully its no big deal.
Once thats done, pull the shift button OUT and pull UP to remove the shifter. Just to clarify, the shift selector button is the one you push in with your thumb before selecting the gear. Note when reinstalling: you will need to use a pair of needle nose pliers to “grab” the shift button in order to pull it back out so you can reinstall it.
At this point the disassembly is complete and you can access pretty much everything related to the center console and shifter. Assembly is the reverse for all steps.
A couple of notes that might be helpful:
- I used a combination of wet sanding and 3 grits of polish on the wood trim. If yours is in pretty good shape you might be able to just polish or use Meguairs scratch remover. This is probably trial and error until you are happy with the results. The clearcoat looks pretty thick so theres a lot of material to work with. Reinstalling with the 6mm screws is optional. The rubber surround holds it tightly in place. This also means youll be able to pop it right back out without all of the disassembly the next time.
- If youre polishing the aluminum trim, I would recommend removing the shift indicator buttons by peeling off the white tape and pushing them out. You will also need to remove the white plastic piece on the back by prying out the four circle clips that hold it on. If you got this far, you wont get stumped with these details. At this point, you be left with just a machined piece of aluminum. I started with 240 grit sandpaper (deep scratches), 320, 400, 500 and then #00, #000, #0000 steel wool. Theres either an anodized coating or clearcoat that you will need to get through before you hit the aluminum. I think any of the grits of sandpaper will get through this pretty fast. I did mine in more of a brushed aluminum look by making the #000 steel wool the last step. If you want to get back to a highly polished finish, you will need to do some buffing too. I replaced these screws but you will notice that this piece is keyed when you reinstall it. You could probably get away without these too, which would eliminate most of this procedure if you wanted to this again.
- The rubber “tractor” looking piece has a pretty tight tolerance and needs to be clean in order to work smoothly. While you have everything opened up, clean it well and use some armor all so that its slippery. I had to do a more extensive cleaning on the plastic guides as it kept getting stuck. Unfortunately, you cant really “test” it until the shifter is reassembled. It needs to be held down in order to work correctly.
1998 Toyota camry CE Sedan L4 2164cc 2 2L DOHC MFI repair manual
Download: 1998 Toyota camry CE Sedan L4-2164cc 2.2L DOHC MFI repair manual
Wednesday, April 3, 2013
Honda Jazz Fit Factory Service Manual
Tons of information and illustrations, covers alot,no missing pages
•Workshop / Service Repair Manual for the 2001–2008 (Global)
or 2006-2008 (North America) Honda fit (First Generation).
• Repair, Maintain, Rebuild, Refurbish or Restore Your Vehicle.
• This is the same type of manual that is used by your local dealer/workshop!!!
• This manual is the same as those used by your mechanic to work on your vehicle.
• Save yourself hundreds in repair bills!
• You don’t need any special technical know how to use this manual. This manual is very easy to use!
• Once you have found your information, just print it out and start working. No more messy manuals that you have to keep replacing or can’t use any more due to wear and tear.
• Repair Manual Software Program from Honda NOT PDF.
• Languages included: English, German, French, Italian, Spanish, Polish, Czech, Hungarian, Portugueese and Dutch.
Download: Honda Jazz Fit Factory Service Manual
Caterpillar 740B Articulated Truck Owners Manual
Download: Caterpillar 740B Articulated Truck Owners Manual
2006 Hyundai Azera Owners Manual
Download: 2006 Hyundai Azera Owners Manual
Tuesday, April 2, 2013
Audi Q7 Minor DIY Patch ReSpray
This will be PART I of the DIYr. I will follow up shortly with the rest including photos. Just wanted to get this part out of the way since ppl are asking.
Keep in mind, this type of DIYr is not black and white, it will take some patients along with trial and error. And remember, dont panic, if you screw up, the worst that can happen is you have to redo it - it may cost you some more time and paint, but with paint, nothing is permanent.
WARNING: I do not recommend first timers of this type of DIYr to try this on anything other than bumpers and valences - re-spraying door panels, hoods, fenders, etc takes a lot of practice and should NOT be attempted unless you feel super confident.
ITEMS NEEDED:
- 100 grit wet/dry sand paper
- 300 grit wet/dry sand paper
- 600 grit wet/dry sand paper
- 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper
(you can buy the larger sheets and cut them to size or buy the smaller stuff already pre-cut to fit the sanding blocks I will list below - I found that buying the bigger sheets gives you more for your money and you can always save the left overs for a future mod)
- Sponge sanding block
- Hard rubber sanding block
- Blue painters tape
- Masking paper (can be any kind of paper, but the brown paper rolls you get from Home Depot in the painters section seem to be cheep and work super well)
- Depending on the task at hand, you may need some sort of body filler to fill in holes or deep scratches on the item that you are painting. For items that are flexible such as bumpers and valences, bondo makes a two-part filler that when dry, stays somewhat flexible. For items that are hard and rigid, you can use any type of body filler that you are comfortable with.
- Plastic spreaders
- Rubbing compound
- Wax
- Applicator pads
- soft towels/cloths (for wax and compound removal)
- Some sort of power tool to apply wax/rubbing compound. You can use goodol elbow grease, but I find that a cordless drill and a applicator pad attachment saves a lot of time and energy and the results are much more apparent.
- Applicator pad attachment
- bucket (for clean water and for soapy water)
- sponge (to wash items being painted
- towel (to dry off washed items)
- Primer paint
- Base coat paint
- Clear coat paint
- Adhesive Promoter (if painting something plastic/rubber)
Audi A3 V1 Hardwiring
Keep in mind, this was on a B6, so I dont know if its that easy for a B5 or B7, but it might be the same. I didnt want to run a ground wire all the way throught the A-pillar, and down to the fuse box. There are 2 bolts that you can ground to less than 6 inches from where the 12v lead is. The only problem is that they are underneath the headliner, and a #*@&! to get too, unless you are using a small @ss wrench. It took me a while to get the bolt loose, to get the negative ground on there.
I mounted the V1 above the rearview mirror, to the right side.
I really need pictures on here! Sorry, but I had to rant, very happy with it!
Ok, so here are some pictures!!!
I started by removing the plastic coverings to the lights, which allow you to see two phillips head screws. Remove these, and the whole piece will drop out of the headliner with a little pull.
This picture shows where the 12V lead is plugged into... This is a switched lead, which turns on and off with the cars ignition, perfect for a radar detector.
A close up of the 12V lead...
This is where I put the negative ground to... Its a realy pain in the @ss to get too, but if you use a small wrench, you can get the bolt loose, and put your lead between the bolt and the frame of the car... I would not reccomend removing the bolt completly, because it might be that much harder to get it back on... If you dont use this location for a ground, you may find yourself trying to route a negative ground wire all the way down to your fuse box, and who really wants to do that?
A close up of the pain in the @ss bolt, A.K.A. "Negative Ground"
The finished product!!! Just tuck all of your loose wires into the headliner somewhere. I would reccomend that you zip tie the extra cabling, so that if you have to open up the compartment again, you dont have a bunch of cables drop down. All in all, you are left with a clean looking radar mount position, about 4 inches of coord thats visible, and the radar unit is just below the factory tint level, which does not inhibit the radar detectors performance. Very happy with it!
Audi TT DIY DesignParts Armrest w modified cup holder
Heres the quick how-to of the install:
1. First Im going to assume that the armrest is already installed with the tunnel cover off, as shown below:
The removal of the cup holders on the stock tunnel cover, as well as the installation of the armrest in the tunnel, is very well explained by the instructions provided with the Design Parts armrest, so I wont spend any time on this..
2. Here are the cup holders still attached to the tunnel cover:
3. To disassemble the cup holder piece from the tunner cover itself, remove the two dimpled aluminum covers - they can easily come off with your nails, or if you dont have any, a small flat-head screwdriver:
4. Removing the dimpled aluminum covers reveals a screw on one side, which is held by a nut on the other side. Remove the screw using a T15 bit:
5. Now you can see the mechanics of the rubber "flaps" that hold down your cups or glasses - its just one piece with two ends, kept under tension by a spring:
6. After removing the rubber flap piece and the spring, you can see the screw that holds the cupholders down to the tunnel cover:
Take that screw out (again with a T15 bit), while careful not to lose the washer as well.
7. Now in order to know where to cut, tape off the ends of the aluminum rails and the side of the plastic base you want to remove (either side if fine, as the cupholders are symetrical) with masking tape or electric tape:
8. To make the cutting job easier, remove the vertical center plastic piece off by twisting in the direction shown, while pushing down on the cupholder base to free it from the aluminum rails:
9. I first cut the base off to give more room for the aluminum rail, which are much stronger hence harder to cut:
Note that screw to the left of the following picture, on the aluminum rim - it holds the plastic base and the two aluminum rails together:
10. Now to the actual cutting of the aluminum - I used a circular blade to make the job quick & easy, but it still took a lot of dexterity to cut at the right place:
11. To smoothen the ends, I used a dremel tool with a fine drum sander bit:
12. Unfortunately the rubber flap cannot be cut in half, as the spring would lose its counter-part to load tension on the other flap which we will end up using. Instead, the flap that will be unused must be trimmed a bit to fit between the arms of the armrest (sounds funny doesnt it).
Heres where to cut:
and heres the flap after it was cut:
13. Now on to the final mutilation of the day: set the cupholder (note the lack of "s" now..) on the tunnel cover. You have to choices: cut the original tunnel cover so that it fits around the arms of the armrest (I know, I know..) or make 2 little holes in the tunnel cover provided the armrest to screw the cupholder in it. I chose the latter option, as I thought making 2 U-shaped cuts in the stock tunnel cover would be more painful than just drilling two holes..
To do that, place the covers side-by-side (vertically then horizontally) to get an exact duplicate of the position of the holes, and drill away:
14. Under the original tunnel cover, youll notice a rectangular-shaped metal piece with a drilled hole in it. Youll need to "steal" that piece (its lightly glued on, so just pry it off gently) and place it under your new tunnel cover:
15. Now everything needs to be put back together. Replace the vertical plastic center piece you took out in step 8 over the cupholders base and between the aluminum rails, insert the screw and its washer you took out during step 4 back in the vertical center piece, guide it through the hole and into the rectangular metal piece on the inside of the tunnel cover, re-assemble the spring and rubber flap (keeping in mind which end goes where) over the vertical center piece, slide the screw you took out in step 4 through the aluminum rails and vertical pieces holes and screw it into its nut, and replace the dimpled aluminum covers you took out in step 3:
16. Finally, take your new "chef-doeuvre" (masterpiece) and snap it under the armrest!
Thats it!!